Saturday, April 18, 2009

Chic & Green In Depth: Palm Oil

Last January, I published a feature here on Chic & Green to talk about palm oil, and how this vegetable oil has become so controversial.

Many readers ask me why I have such an anti-palm oil stance, and I would like to revisit this issue and follow up on any developments since the original piece was written.

If you're using natural products and regularly buy cold processed soaps, chances are palm oil is on the ingredients label. It is also found in "eco-friendly" candles and tarts. Palm wax is growing in popularity over the past couple years because it delivers a unique shiny appearance to candles. While it may be naturally derived, it is a leader in terms of cruelty to animals and harming the environment

Palm oil is everywhere.

It is used in most soaps, as it is gentle to the skin and makes for a hard bar. It is used in lipsticks and in lip balms, as it is softening and nourishing due to the high saturated fat content. I have looked at the boxes of so many lipsticks, including major brands from $3 to $30+ many contain palm oil. Palm is in hand soaps, in nearly every single melt and pour base (some don't say palm oil; many simply state "vegetable oils." The one all-natural palm oil free melt and pour base sold in the US that I can find on the net contains peanut oil instead, which isn't a good option for soap. Palm oil is in many shampoos and shower gels as well.

It is not just in our cosmetics. 

Do you want an incentive to eat healthier if your habits are poor? This is your time to do something! It is in our processed foods. Just go to Wegmans and take a glance at the back of the package of any major brand of crackers, chips or cookies. Palm oil is in packaged biscotti and treats for gourmet bakeries, too. Some chocolates also contain palm oil, as do many kinds of toothpaste. It is estimated that more than 10% of products in the store contain palm oil.

Palm oil, by the way, is high in saturated fats and raises your risk of heart disease. As heart diseases is our nation's #1 killer of women, shouldn't that be reason enough to stop consuming it?

Palm oil is also used for biofuels. One would think a "green" alternative to the emissions from standard diesel gas would be more beneficial. Fuel has been produced to be used instead of traditional diesel in farming equipment in the United States. That sounds wonderful, but to get this "green" fuel in terms of emissions, thousands of acres of rainforest have been destroyed. Countless wildlife have perished in an effort to be more "green" in eco-speak. It is a catch 22, almost, in that particular situation. Nobody seems to be aware of HOW that type of "green" fuel comes to be. No one speaks of the effect of animals and the the quality of air. So, yes, using this as a diesel alternative is better for the environment when you talk of emissions alone. No one wants to talk about at what cost this came to be.

As a note, we import a great amount of palm oil in the United States. We have plans to import more. In the UK alone, they import over 1 million
TONS of palm oil each year.

Palm or petroleum?

When I was reading an article not long ago, there was an interview with reps from Greenpeace. It was said that palm oil is worse than crude oil. I agree. I don't use products derived from crude oil. Yes, they may be "natural" (so is Poison Oak), but that doesn't mean it is good. Truth be told, I'd sooner burn a paraffin candle or rub Vaseline on my lips (which is banned in the EU, by the way) than use a product containing palm oil.

What is so wrong with how we get palm oil?

Palm oil is brought to us by literally destroying the habitat of animals, particularly orangutans. Thousands of orangutans have died because of this trade. In fact, five particular mammals are endangered (3 being on the "critically endangered" list) because their habits have been cleared away for palm oil. These are the Sumatran and Bornean Orangutans, Asian Elephant, Sumatran Tiger, and Sumatran Rhinoceros. This is happening all over Southeast Asia, but the majority of the palm oil (over 80%) comes from Malaysia and Borneo alone. Something needs to be done, and soon. If this continues, the Friends of the Earth predicts that in about 10 years, orangutans will be extinct.

Why is this the case? In their natural habitat, these animals are losing their homes to fires, the logging industry, and more specifically, the palm oil industry. Palm Oil plantations abound, and animals are facing the truth that their travel patterns are cut off, their homes are vanishing (ie: the rainforest in general). Animals are much more vulnerable to poachers because of this. Plantation workers have also been discovered to kill these animals to get food, or to just get the animals "out of their way". Numerous cases of killing these animals essentially "for the sport of it" have been reported. Another way the animals are dying is because the plantation workers often set fires to clear space and the fires often burn out of control, destroying a large chunk of the natural habitat of these animals.

Not only are there moral issues when it comes to the loss of life of these animals, but there is a huge environmental impact. Tropical rainforests are being cleared away. Because of the palm oil plantations (made by clearing away the rainforests), over 600 million TONS of carbon are leaked into the air. Pesticides and herbicides are in the air because of this practice. Let's also think about the fish dying each day from what is being leaked from the processing plants there.

What is being done?

The Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) was formed in 2004. Its mission was to promote awareness for the use of sustainable palm oil. Strict guidelines were set in place to ensure that changes were made in the palm oil trade. It sounded like a good thing.

Unfortunately, many environmentalists and animal rights organizations have come out and made statements criticizing the RSPO.

Greenpeace, for example, has publicly called the RSPO "a farce". This is because it was discovered that several members of the RSPO actually engage in unethical practices which have caused more death and deforestation. The RSPO has not taken action against these members. When members of a committee pledging to clean up this industry as the very ones causing harm, something needs to change.

When something billed as "sustainable" palm oil was brought to the marketplace by way of contributing to global warming and killing innocent animals, it can't truly be called sustainable.

I really had high hopes for the RSPO as it continued to make strides in cleaning up the industry. I thought I one day would buy items containing "sustainable palm oil." That is no longer an option in my mind. Pretty much any company can "buy" a membership to the roundtable and there isn't much of verification process. That in itself isn't unique--it is much like PETA in that respect.

Are cosmetics companies listening?

Not really.
Lush, a rather unnatural "natural" products company, has taken steps to eliminate palm oil. They came out with Green Wash, a palm oil free melt and pour soap. There was all sorts of hoopla, but when you consider that this also was made of propylene glycol, sodium lauryl sulfate, and EDTA, I would not try it. All of their other soaps contain those harsh ingredients and palm oil.

Burt's Bees, a company I used to love and have so much respect for, used to list palm oil on their soaps. Now the ingredients list simply begins with "vegetable soap base"....a clever way to avoid saying "palm oil" for less savvy consumers.

What can you do?

*You can read the ingredients labels religiously. If ingredients are not listed, don't buy. There are options. You just need to spend a bit of time exploring them.

*You can ask your favorite company to consider replacing other oils for palm oil. It truly isn't necessary to make a good bar of soap. 

*You can use beeswax or soy wax instead of palm when buying candles and tarts (although I no longer recommend soy wax. Read here to learn why.)

*Don't eat margarine or shortening, is palm oil is often used in this. You typical "vegetable oil" at the grocery store almost always contains palm as well.

The Bottom Line:

If you are an animal lover, chances are you avoid companies that conduct animal testing. You may not use products with carmine (crushed insects used to color lipstick and blush). Why is palm oil any different? The bottom line is that we need, in my opinion, to educate ourselves when it comes to what we rub into our skin, put on our faces, shampoo or hair with, etc.

A conscious effort is made by most of us to pay attention to the foods we put into our bodies. We 
want to be healthy. We want to be eco-friendly. We don't want animals to be killed so our soap can be firm.

At what cost, though, to have softer skin or a longer lasting bar of soap? Is it worth it? There are so many fats (oils) out there derived through humane methods that we could choose to use instead. Olive oil...coconut oil...rice bran...sweet almond...grapeseed....apricot...jojoba... macadamia many more! Hemp Seed Oil is a wonderfully nourishing, yet cruelty-free and eco-friendly oil.

I had a favorite stuffed animal as a child, Herman. Herman was a stuffed orangutan from Washington, DC's National Zoo Gift Shop. I wanted that one because I always thought orangutans were "cute". I would hate to think that because I wanted a harder bar of soap or a creamy, yet firm lipstick that I would be contributing to the probable extinction of animals within my lifetime.


  1. Great post - I was actually at the national zoo today for a little bit actually (saw the panda cub!)

  2. I love the National Zoo--my boys are so excited about meeting that panda!

  3. THANK YOU for a great post. I just discovered this weekend that palm oil is in peanut butter (the kind sold in jars at the supermarket). Sometimes I wish we had stricter cosmetic regulations like over there in the EU.

  4. Great article Karley! I wish soapers and crafters would try and use another oil or butter. My two soap people I use, certainly don't use it and what lovely, hard bars they make! So I don't get it. I know oils have gone up and wouldn't it be nice if palm went way up where people would stop using it altogether? I found out the hard way, palm oil makes me itch so I don't use it, but mainly I am tired of the way the world is spinning and just trying to do my itty bitty part.

  5. Thanks for your post! I have become more aware of palm oil as an ingredient that I don't want to use(because of you)..I used to use CP soap that may have contained palm oil but now that I can (and do) buy wonderful soaps from Nan, I no longer need to buy those with palm oil..Silk is also something I want to wean out of my life (I wanted to a couple of years back, but I HAD to wear silk sarees for my wedding, so that was difficult..Also it doesn't help that I love silk..but I'll get there..:))

    Another thing on ingredient labels that is irritating is when labels say: coconut based/derived surfactants when SLS could well come under that category.

    Thank you for your super educational post..

  6. Silk is something I would like to address, Lavanya.

    There are cruelty free alternatives that I wish more companies would spend the extra money on, where they wait until the cocoon shells have been discarded and are empty (sometimes called peace silk), so no silkworms are harmed. It costs a bit more, but it is important, in my eyes.

    I used to work with a corn-derived silk, cornsilk--while it doesn't give the SAME feel as silk protein, it worked well in my cleanser.

    I use a cruelty-free silk oil in my cleanser at this time. The thought of ANYTHING--even "just a worm" being boiled alive doesn't work for me.

    Ladies, YES--Aunt Nancy's Handmade Soaps are awesome AND free of palm oil. Alchemic Muse also sells only palm oil free soaps.

  7. Yes, I have heard of peace silk ..A while ago, I bought some silk stoles at a silk exhibition in India. These were made from tussar silk during the making of which silkworms were not harmed..It is also called Ahimsa silk (which means non-violent silk)..So I'm trying to transition into buying more of this kind of silk and insisting that my family doesn't buy me silk stuff. I definitely think these options should be made known and explored- I'm totally with you on the 'even if it is just a worm' the extent that if I find a spider at home- I'd rather pick it up and throw it out rather than kill it...

    One confession- I did buy a bag made out of silk neckties recently from 1000 markets but these were upcycled from ties found at thrift stores so I convinced myself that it was ok, since it was like recycling..Now I'm feeling guilty again..

  8. Great post, thank you for sharing with us.

  9. This is an excellent post on avoiding palm oil Karley. I've long know about the palm oil problem but there was no info in here that I did NOT know! Thank you! And I have to admit I've probably been a little lax in my label reading as of late. We hardly eat processed food or margarine so I always assume I'm safe. Not so!

    Do you mind if I link to this from my blog? I think this is info that everyone should know about!

  10. Absolutely, Christine--feel free.

  11. Thanks Karley!

    I just re-read my comment! What I meant to say was "there was NEW information that I did not know!" So sorry, it looked like I was saying I knew it all already! I did not!

  12. So, I managed to contact 3 Etsy soapers about this topic. I contacted Savor, who seems to be doing pretty well on Etsy. She does melt and pour, and there's definitely palm oil in her soaps. I forwarded the 7th Generation Article to her. To sum it up, she says that it's a great article, but given the way she makes her soaps, there's nothing she can do. So she just needs to focus on the other parts of the eco-friendly stuff (So Savor isn't going to do anything about palm oil). I then contacted Alex at SoapalayaSoaps, and bless her heart, she is in the process of trying to eliminate palm oil. She gave a good lesson on why soapers used palm oil in the first place. Right now, she's testing out different recipes, so she'd still be able to keep the quality of her current products without using palm oil. I contacted the 3rd soaper, Erin at Haunt, whose soaps always sell out very quickly. I have yet to hear from her.

    So in summary, points for thinking about going palm oil-free:
    0 for Savor
    1 for SoapalayaSoaps
    0 for Haunt

  13. Oh I hope Alex does get rid of palm oil, I just adore her shop but I stop at buying her soaps and they are lovely!! Good for her. I hope Haunt can come on board. I love Savor soaps alot, but I bet she might buy her M&P with it already in there. Thanks Jenn for contacting them!!

  14. I was surprised by this-- I'll look out for it from now on and a tweeted it!

    I've hated silk since I found out that they killed the worms. Glad to know there are alternatives out there!!!!

  15. Jenn,

    You are awesome! Thank you for taking it upon yourself to check those. I would love to try Soapalaya if she goes palm oil free. I ordered a non soap item from her and had a nice experience!

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  17. Hello-- Thank you for giving so much attention to the palm oil issue!

    The palm oil industry is guilty of the most heinous ecological atrocities imaginable, including the systematic genocide of orangutans. The forests of Borneo and Sumatra are the only place where these gentle, intelligent creatures live, and the cultivation of palm oil has directly led to the brutal deaths of thousands of individuals as the industry has expanded into previously undisturbed areas of rainforest.

    When the forest is cleared, adult orangutans are typically shot on sight. These peaceful, sentient beings are beaten, burned, mutilated, tortured and often eaten. Babies are torn off their dying mothers so they can be sold on the black market as illegal pets to wealthy families who see them as status symbols of their own power and prestige. Please understand that I am not trying to be overly dramatic. This actually happens. It has been documented time and again.

    Some of the luckier orangutans are confiscated and brought to sanctuaries such as the Nyaru Menteng Orangutan Rescue Center, which is now home to nearly 700 orphaned and displaced orangutans in Central Kalimantan (Indonesian Borneo). Many of these orangutans are only several weeks old when they arrive, and all of them are psychologically traumatized and desperate for their mothers-- who were slaughtered right before their eyes.

    Nyaru Menteng is managed by a remarkable woman named Lone Droscher Nielsen. It is featured on Animal Planet's series 'Orangutan Island' as well as on the BBC's 'Orangutan Diary'.

    To learn more about the crisis facing wild orangutans because of palm oil and see how you can help protect them, please visit the Orangutan Outreach website.

    Thank you for taking the time to read my long comment!

    Best wishes, Rich

    Richard Zimmerman
    Director, Orangutan Outreachhttp://redapes.orgReach out and save the orangutans!
    Facebook Cause:

  18. I just realized that few of my favorite conditioners contain either hydrolyzed silk protein or silk amino acids..:(.. I need to check (with the owners) if they are derived from cruelty-free silk..

  19. You are so right about Palm oil, we are currently looking to add candles and wax melts to our gift range and I although Palm wax creates a wonderful candle, we will be going with Soy wax so as to do our bit to protect the rainforests and wildlife of Malaysia and Borneo. I am unsure of so called "Sustainable Palm Wax" as it would create a popularity for Palm Wax which would only promote more businesses to use any Palm wax they can get their hands on not caring about the orang utans and other environmental issues.
    Please add your comments to my own blog as I would love people's feedback on this issue to help guide me with my choice of manufacturer of candles.


  20. I wanted to add us to the list. I make cold processed soaps that do not contain palm oil, and I do not use silk. I used to but I found other ways to get that silky feel in my soaps.

  21. Zaja,

    Could you please tell me which ones are palm oil free? All of the ones I have looked at in your beautiful shops say palm kernel oil in your ingredients listings. Thanks!

  22. I avoid palm oil in food at all costs, but I had no idea it was so damaging in other ways. Thank you!


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